a jornada: There's More to France Than Paris

Where do I begin? We have just spent five days with S & J in St Maurice sur Eygues at the La Fontaine au Loup (www.la-foutaine-au-loup.com), a wonderful B&B offering all that one would dream of in the south of France, in July, with good friends, and complete with the “song” of the cicadas. (The sound of the cicadas remind people that it is indeed summer holiday time. To me... LOUD cricket noise!)

The setting was relaxed and very beautiful, with the scent of rosemary and lavender in the air as the cool breezes were a contrast to the sun which was quite warm. The deck and table directly outside our door was overlooking the trees that ultimately overlooked a lush green valley. The pool was refreshing, but I do have to admit I did feel abit guilty as J would exercise in the pool each day as I sat, was lazy and watched. (Notice I said only “abit guilty”! Obviously not enough to get up out of my lounge and do something about it.)

Several couples settled in the rooms around us that were also looking for and enjoying the peaceful surroundings of this place. Breakfast was served each day that added to and filled the senses. P, the Innkeeper was a lovely woman who not only worked hard to make the place beautiful, but gave the atmosphere a friendly welcoming feel.

She spoke very fast French, but patiently spoke English with us also. The second morning she was quick to see that R and I were up early each day and sitting outside in the cool fresh morning air, and graciously served us hot cups of coffee. I can’t tell you how special that was each morning! Thank you, P!!!

Looking up to La Fontaine au Loup (driveway on far right, Inn just to the left of driveway)

La Fontaine through the trees

Breakfast area under the oaks

Our friends and hosts/tour guides took us to several of their favorite places in the area. Most days we stopped for morning coffee at a café, but afternoon coffee was a must. J would pack a delicious picnic lunch each day that would be enjoyed wherever a shady spot was found, a picnic table was optional.

A few of the destinations we visited and enjoyed: After a drive through lovely vineyards, the road narrowed and we went through a narrow mountain pass of what looked like a lunar landscape of rocks and boulders. We passed through an oak forest and arrived at a small valley, there we saw the Abbey surrounded by acres of lavender fields. The Notre-Dame de Senanque Abbey (www.senanque.fr) which is a functioning example of Cistercian architecture and way of life. The monks that live there, live their daily lives of continuous prayer and solitude as monks have before them since the 12^th century. Mass is open to the public and guided tours are available in only parts of the abbey as not to disturb the monks living there. The lavender fields that surrounded the Abbey can be seen in the pictures I took, but can only truly be experienced by being there to smell them. The monks and cultivation of these fields along with the production of honey contribute to the maintenance of the community.

S & J, myself and R

Absolute simplistic beauty and peacefulness

Columns around cloister

Cloister

A picnic where no table is needed

Another adventure took us to Poet-Laval, one of the last two remaining sites of the historical protestant presence in France. The town itself was impressive as it was perched on a hill. As we walked through the narrow streets, there were ruins of what was once a large church or cathedral. Cafes and restaurants now occupy what were once large homes, but current residents still live within the walls. The ruins of the Abbey were the domanin of the Knights Templer, Order of Saint John, who split off Catholicism and became Protestant. The small museum produced a elderly German docent hosted us for a long conversation on the origins of the protestants in France. We stepped into one of the few remaining original meeting place for the Protestants which was not destroyed because it was also the "Community Center." Church services could be quickly switched to a "community meeting" in order to hide Protestant worship from marauding Catholics.

It is interesting that eight hundred years later this same area became the center of French resistance activities during World War II. The independent spirit of Protestants has continued for over 1,000 years in this area.

Le Poet-Laval

Ruins of original cathedral

Church meeting room/community meeting room (The church was hiding in plain sight!)

Valley below Poet-Laval

On the way to Poet-Laval, we attempted to drive up to a city that was in complete ruin on a hill. The roads and signs did not allow us to reach the ruins, but on the way back to the road was a small chapel and graveyard that faced toward the ruined city, across a valley. Its doors were locked but we walked its perimeter and through the old cemetery. What a story each grave marker could tell…

Ruins of Beconne

Chapel

Graveyard

Looking back up to Beconne across the valley

Lavender fields in the valley

A note about the Tour de France, for all the Tour fans - Throughout our driving from place to place, signs were posted reminding us that the Tour would be coming through on a particular road and the date it would be closed. The Tour was to go through the area throughout the weekend. We came around a curve and caught a team in a practice run...

We so enjoy seeking out and walking through are the markets each little town would have during the week. An antique faire in the town of Visan was interesting and fun to stroll through. It was not large, but the pieces displayed and offered for sale were interesting. Some were pieces I had not ever seen before and some pieces were priced incredibly low compared to similar items one would see in the US priced much higher.

From Visan, we drove to the market in St-Cecile-las-Vignas. What a beautiful market it was! The colorful displays were a delight and the produce and wares were of good quality.