Friday, March 15, 2013

Not just any rug!

Well, not neccessarily, especially if you are in Arraiolos!  Let me explain...

With our dear friends, we started out on a road trip to the interior of Portugal, the Alentejo.  We had a reservation for night and a final destination, but weren't sure what would be seen on the way.  Our first stop was the town of Arraiolos.  Arraiolos had its very beginnings in about 300 BC, but the castle that looms above the city on a hill was built in the 14th century, with the large white Igreja (church) built in the 16th century within its walls.  We proceeded to drive up the hill to the castle and are able to drive not only right up TO the castle, but were able to drive INTO the castle walls and park right next to the church!  No gates, no lines, no signs, no tall fences, no entrance fees, no people!  "Se viu uma, ja viu todos."  (You see one, you see them all." as O would say!?!)  Well, we have NOT come to that point of view.  Each town and each castle is an amazing place to stop and explore, and to take countless pictures.  In the states there would be a line of cars waiting at the entrance gate to pay $10, to get inside the tall fences to park, and then to be able to explore, staying within the confines of the designated areas, taking pictures only through the glass barriers.  Not so much here in Portugal.

The sky was clear and the sun shone brightly, but the wind was cold and biting.  (Arraiolos is farther north and east of Lisbon.)  The white painted walls of the Igreja were striking against the green of the grass within the walls of the castle.  Often the doors of the Igreja are open and you are free to walk inside, but these were closed.  As we walked around the Igreja and walls of the castle, we were once again amazed by the lack of handrails and warning signs that in the states would be posted.  Join us for a look at and inside the castle.



(Notice the parking "space")



Who needs handrails and safety signs when you can walk around the walls on a 3 foot ledge 30 feet above the ground???  (And much higher on the outside of the walls???)


Within the walls

Arraiolos below



Watch your head!

Within the walls looking out towards Spain approximately 15 miles in the distance.

Entering Arraiolos down the hill from the castle

Arraiolos is not known for its castle, as every town has its castle, but for the handmade bright colored wool rugs that are produced by women stitching in little shops along the main street.  These carpets have been woven since the 13th century and have decorated countless palaces and homes throughout Portugal.  We stopped at a tiny shop to look inside.  I immediately loved the rug hanging at the entrance. 

As we entered the quiet shop, to the right was a women sitting and stitching.  She allowed me to take her picture and answered several questions as M interpreted for me.  She shared that she worked each each day, therefore able to produce one meter of rug per month.  The rugs that hung on the walls were for sale and were stitched with many floral and geometric designs of wool yarn.  As we walked through the shop, I saw a rug in the back "storage" room that I fell in love with.  It was a rug that was being repaired and not for sale.  We inquired and were told that a new rug could be made with that wonderful design.  I could not resist.  My new "replica" rug measures 1 1/2 meters and will be completed in a couple months.  

This is an art that is dying as the world progresses and cheap replicas of these are be produced in countries that are then imported back and are offered at far lower prices, pushing away the old original craft.  We have seen in only the last couple of years here in Portugal, the opening of many Loja Chinesa (Chinese stores.)  It is very hard for the Portuguese to see these changes and the loss of their culture, but the Chinese stores are able to offer "Portugal" products at a fraction of the price.  Unsuspecting tourists purchase these products because of the low prices.  We have been sad to see more and more open, even in the small towns and villages. 

I am excited to know that my rug will be a part of Portugal and its history.  It will be handmade by a Portugese woman sitting in this tiny store day after day.  It will provide a local business with a couple months of work. I picture this rug on the floor in our bedroom in front of the fireplace reminding me of this place in Portugal. 




One stitch at a time...

"Storage/restoration rugs room"


This old rug that will be reproduced for me that hangs at the door of the shop.

So... not just any rug will do!






1 comment:

  1. I'm not even sure how to put words to this beauty. Both in the grounds and the castle but also in the hands of those Portugese women who pour their heart and soul into their work. How blessed you are to have witnessed this first hand and to (eventually) have this heritage live on in your home.

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