a jornada: Four Tourists in Castelo Novo

And yes, I mean ONLY four tourists in Castelo Novo!!! Castelo Novo is uma pequeno aldeia (a small village) nestled against a mountain range covered with rocks/stones/boulders but with a wonderful spring of clear water bubbling from the mountain that has brought life to the people there for over 1,000 years. Even now the water continues to flow from the spring down small troughs and pipes as it feeds into a river at the bottom of the village. Population -- 300 residents, 4 tourists, at least the day we were there. One restaurant, one meat market, one 8x10 museum, two churches, two inns/B&B's, no school, no shops, no commerce and one cafe (attached to the restaurant, same owners.) No fake tourist cheesiness!!!

Have you been to Carmel California? I have always loved the charm of this coastal village, but think Carmel 1,000 years old without the shops, traffic and status. That will give you a minuscule glimpse of this special place. Even then it cannot compare...

We arrived in Castelo Novo before dusk and drove through the village to find our B&B, a place R found online. It was rated quite high, so we felt good about staying. We began to wonder and become nervous as we couldn't find the street and drove in several circles down the narrow streets, (O had to fold in the mirrors on the van at one point to pass through the buildings on the sides of the street.) Finally we arrived at our 'home' for the night. We were warmly greeted by Dona Maria at the front door. She brought us into her office and turned on the light. After quite lengthy introductions and visit, she wanted to show us HER casa, which was now to be our casa.

She and her husband live in a four story building she grew up in that was once an artist's home. We stood inside the room where the household wine had been pressed, bottled and stored, then inside the garage, now a lounge area of this large home. The inside of her home had been remodeled and updated. The stones walls were beautiful and throughout the home were new wood floors. She and her husband live on the second floor as is the wonderful comfortable living room with a fireplace on one end and the breakfast "room" on the other end. She rents out four rooms, we each had a room on the fourth floor. This entire floor had been redone in a very modern architectural style, but furnished with antique furniture which added the warmth and character that literally oozed from everywhere you looked.

She asked us what time we would like dinner as she needed to call the restaurant down the hill to open its doors and prepare dinner for us... just us! At the appointed time, we met her downstairs and she walked us to the front door of the restaurant. We had a choice of four entrees, which were on a hand written menu, that included soup, salad, main dish, dessert and coffee in what was a meticulously clean and inviting room. Needless to say, our meal was very tasty! The owner gave us a tour of the restaurant after dinner, which turned out to be quite large. When asked if it was ever full, she told us 'of course, every Sunday' as they slow cook a large Sunday meal consisting of the specialty - about 50 pounds of slow cooked goat!!! Mmmmm!?!?! It was a very charming place.

After making our way back up the hill after dark to the home in which we were staying, we spent some time in the upstairs living room. Dona Maria brought out four small crystal dessert wine glasses and left us a decanter of what looked like a dessert port wine. We poured a glass and tasted it... oh my, what an incredible flavor! It was a cherry flavored port wine. We enjoyed a glass in front of the fireplace, very quaint and very warm as it was quite cold outside. The rooms were very quiet until we realized the church bells chimed each hour well into the night. Only in a small village...

In the morning a breakfast for a king was set before us. The table was formal and absolutely beautifully set with linens, which the town was known to produce many years ago. The food was simple, but the bread was hot and the variety of jams were excellent. Dona Maria appeared during breakfast to ask if the meal was satisfactory, she had in her hands and set on the table before us, a blue flowered bag. Out of the bag she pulled a bottle of this wonderful cherry port dessert wine. It was not for sale as her husband and a friend made it themselves and bottled it. She gave us a bottle as a gift. What a way to begin a day. After packing up and loading the car, goodbyes were said. We walked through the small town completely built of stone! Up at the top of the hill we found the source of the fresh water that flowed down through the streets. Everywhere one looked, a picture could be taken. This place was so amazing. A few locals appeared as they opened their windows and greeted us warmly. (They were probably amazed and amused that there were so many tourists in town all at one time!?!)

As we drove out of town and looked back, the aldeia looked so small, yet so beautiful with its red tile roofs and castle walls which stood proudly against the mountain. The way we figured it, the aldeia and Dona Maria actually PAID us to stay in Castelo Novo with a unique and unforgettable experience!

This place took us back in time, yet provided us the comforts of today in the B & B, the unique tastes of the interior of Portugal and wonderful memories made with dear friends.

Come to Castelo Novo...