The Charm of Cascais

Yes, the charm of Cascais AND The Charm of Cascais!

We have visited Cascais (pronounced "cash-kys") many times before, usually on the day we arrive in Lisbon as it is a wonderful drive along the coast and coffee is always welcome when you are trying to stay awake from the long flight here. 

A quick drive-through and several pictures taken have rounded out our past trips to Cascais.

But we have just experienced Cascais anew.  It is of course summertime and many come here for summer holidays and the beaches.

Cascais is a coastal town 30 kilometers west of Lisbon, with about 35,000 residents, located on the Estoril coast. It is a cosmopolitan suburb and one of the richest municipalities in Portugal. The former fishing village gained fame as a resort for Portugal's royal family in the lat 19th century and early 20th century. Various fortresses were built on the coast around Cascais during the 17th century, and many of them still exist. Today,  there is a large yacht harbor and several small sand beaches in and around town. Cascais is easily reached from Lisbon by car (on the scenic "Marginal" road), and has the ruins of a castle, an art and sea museum, as well as many parks and the charming cobbled streets and cafes of the historic center.

A coffee in the afternoon

Strolling the book stalls in the town park

View from our table at a restaurant 

Sunset

Walk back on the Marginal

But now we have explored the town on foot and on bicycles in the past two days.  The beaches are colorful with many umbrellas and beachwear and many people coming to sit and soak up the warm summer sunshine.  The water is teaming with those seeking the cool relief from the sun and sand.  The town is bustling with visitors and tourists from all over Europe.  Cascais is  very international as NATO headquarters is nearby and many from all over the world live here for work.  Many foreign tourists as well as the Portuguese come for the beaches, resort atmosphere and summer relaxation.  Cascais IS charming.  

But we are experiencing The Charm of Cascais (www.thecharmofcascais.com), a guest house (Bed & Breakfast) in a residential area of Cascais.  It is surrounded by large private homes of not only full time residents, but also large private summer homes.  As you walk through the streets, the houses are all fenced with large trees, hedges and locked gates keeping privacy inside for the residents.  The Charm of Cascais was a private home turned into guest house with 8 private rooms for rent.  The owners S and R are the most friendly amazing people.  They have made their home available for others to enjoy.  The backyard is secluded, even as the traffic speeds by on the road outside, you don't  notice as the yard is so relaxing.  The pool has gorgeous blue tiles that shine brilliantly in the sun.  The white chairs and umbrellas invite you to sit and enjoy the hours as they pass.  

The Charm of Cascais

Backyard paradise

Our room in pool house (right side)

Our room was white with touches of blue very tastefully added.  Our room was so quiet, we slept soundly all night, waking up refreshed and ready for a new day.  Our day began with breakfast.  

Breakfast -- I'm not quite sure how to describe it as it was SO amazing.  We began with our usual cup of coffee, which led to individually prepared scrambled eggs and bacon by R (who cooks the "salty"), then I couldn't resist a crepe (prepared by S who cooks the "sweet").  Oh my, which was better???  BOTH!!!  Another cup of coffee and a Pastais da Natas (homemade of course).  Needless to say, breakfasts are incredible.  

The only way I could justify eating all this wonderful food was to rent their two bicycles and ride to wherever our adventure would take us.

  Our first stop of the day was to visit the Museu Condes Castro Guimaraes.   It is so close to the water that at high tide the sea comes right up to it. It has many  interesting paintings, a collection of Indo-Portuguese furniture and some pre-historic archaeological relics. Its library of over 25,000 books has some beautifully bound 17th century editions and a 1505 illuminated manuscript.  It was only built in the early 1900's, but as you enter, the tiles on the walls are all early 1700's as they were tiles rescued and reused, taken from buildings that were demolished in the earthquake of 1755 in Lisbon.  The museum was filled with beautiful furniture and art that was a wonderful collection from the 17th-18th centuries.  The art was an outstanding collection of watercolor, oil, sculpture and other mediums.  We were the only two inside the museum, along with the three museum employees.  And, it was free!  We had driven by many times, now so glad to have taken the time to look inside!!!  

Museu Condes Castro Guimaraes (Chapel on far right)

The view as we drove by many times

Chapel

Example of old tiles

We stopped at the shopping mall we had driven by many times to take a look around.  Then a stop at Jumbo (the large supermarket) to purchase several items for a picnic lunch.  We sat on a sea wall overlooking the bright blue sea and enjoyed our lunch, watching the sea and visiting about our time in Cascais thus far.  A ride down to Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell) along the Marginal (the road along the coast) for coffee before riding back up to our new found retreat.  

Picnic lunch

Boca do Inferno

Boca do Inferno (very calm waters in the summer)

Our transportation for the day

The afternoon passed as we sat by the pool, read and talked.  A fabulous dinner was enjoyed here at the guest house as S and R prepared a delicious several course meal.  The main dish was S's own recipe of bachalhou and potatoes.  The evening was delightful as we sat under the patio and watched the sky darken and the lights of the yard and pool come on.  What a special treat this was!!!  

Beautifully set dinner table

Bacalhau and salad

I'm not sure we want to leave this place, but am so glad we found it.  I am sure we will return another time when we come back to Portugal.  How can we not plan to stay in this place again???  Thank you S and R for such an incredible place you have shared with us!  Your home and this stay will be talked about for a long time.